Excursion to the world of vegan beauty is conducted by makeup artist and head of the NYX Professional Makeup department Maria Erina
What do you think is behind the explosion in vegan beauty?
I'm sure the growing interest in vegan formulas is part of the general interest in conscious consumption. And this, in turn, is a thoughtful approach to shopping, responsibility for ethics and environmental friendliness. There is probably a tribute to fashion in this. Perhaps not everyone understands one hundred percent what this means, but they buy it because it is fashionable and everyone is suddenly talking about it. And the majority really consciously approaches this process.From my point of view, both are great!
When and how did NYX Professional Makeup enter this niche?
We started developing such formulas several years ago, it was necessary to conduct a huge amount of research: how does one or another component affect the properties of cosmetics, how does it work, how is it combined with other components in the formula? And then it was necessary to actively talk about the fact that we have vegan formulas, explain what it is and why. Today we have more than 60% of the entire range - vegan formulas, we started this path three years ago.
Here is one of the first NYX Professional Makeup posts on this topic:
What are the benefits of vegan formulas?
There are two aspects here.
Ethical.As with food, animal welfare-conscious people are now turning to vegan cosmetics. For example, did you know that 90% of the beeswax in cosmetics is produced under terrible conditions? Bees do not see grass, flowers - they are simply locked in metal boxes with sugar and produce wax. Of course, one of the key advantages is the concern for nature and fauna. Animals cannot defend themselves.
He alth.Throughout our lives, we consume a huge amount of cosmetics, since some of the material applied, for example, on the lips, necessarily enters the body, it's great to offer formulas that will be produced from plants or even synthetically, but let it be purer, more elaborate formulas.
A person can eat up to 2 kilos of lipstick a year!
What are the weaknesses of such cosmetics?
The first formulas a few years ago might not have been very pigmented, which is why there is still a belief that a vegan formula is not bright.But several years have passed, technologies have improved significantly, and now it is already clear that such products are not inferior to traditional formulas either in pigmentation, or in durability, or in other parameters. To date, I cannot point out any obvious weaknesses in such formulas.
Is there a difference between "vegan cosmetics" and "vegan formula" ?
Yes, and this is a very important question. "Vegan cosmetics" , or "vegan product" , means that the entire product meets the criteria for vegan (including packaging). "Vegan formula" - here we are talking only about the composition of the product and its formula. Packaging is not included.
Please give examples, which traditional components have to be replaced?
Cochineal - small insects, from the females of which a substance is extracted, used to obtain red dye. It is added to red lipsticks, blushes and even food products.
Lanolin is a wool wax, an animal wax obtained by boiling sheep wool. May be referred to as aliphatic alcohols, isopropyl lanolate, lanet, lanogen, lanolin alcohols, lanosterols, sterols, or triterpene alcohols.
Glycerin - it is obtained by saponification of animal fats. It contains glyceride, glyceryl, glycret-26 or polyglycerin.
These are just a few ingredients that we (and many of our like-minded people) have abandoned and are now being replaced by vegetable or synthetic ones.
It seems that there are fewer vegans than consumers and supporters of vegan cosmetics. Why do you think?
The term "veganism" appeared as one of the classifications of vegetarianism and was introduced in 1944 by Donald Watson. That is, the history of veganism, even if counted from this moment, has been going on for more than 80 years.During this time, the topic of vegetarianism as a whole has been seriously studied and mastered, whole communities, special departments in grocery stores and even individual stores have appeared. I think that further growth in the number of vegans, not only in terms of food, is a matter of time. And the task of brands that develop this trend in cosmetics is to talk about it as clearly, more often and more transparently as possible.
Do you think cruelty-free and vegan cosmetics will replace non-vegan cosmetics?
First, let's separate cruelty-free and vegan formula.
Cruelty-free means the product is not tested on animals. Our brand is completely cruelty-free. However, products that are not tested on animals may contain ingredients of animal origin (oddly enough, huh?). For example, in order to obtain a component such as lanolin, you can use an ingredient of animal origin - sheep's wool. The animal itself is not killed, no tests are carried out on the sheep, but their wool is the source of the component.Such cosmetics will not be vegan, but will be cruelty-free. This trend, fortunately, has been living and gaining momentum for a long time, both manufacturers and users of cosmetics talk about it a lot. It will only grow and hopefully we will one day be completely cruelty-free in the cosmetics market. You can find more information about which methods are used for cosmetic tests here.
Is it possible to sacrifice the fluffy fur and comfort of this cute creature for the sake of testing cosmetics! Not to mention that there are more modern and civilized methods.
In vegan formulas, not only the ban on testing cosmetic products on animals is important, but also the complete exclusion from the composition of products of animal origin, such as beeswax, lanolin and carmine color pigment.
Another misconception is that vegan products do not contain synthetic ingredients and chemicals. This is wrong. Vegan brands include both botanical and synthetic ingredients for preservation or texture uniformity.Maria Erina Head of Training NYX Professional Makeup RussiaWhen it comes to vegan formulas, I'm sure this trend will continue to grow. Already, we see that one in three buyers will purposefully choose a vegan formula over others. But to fully embrace vegan formulas in the entire market, I think, will not be easy. There are a lot of factors combined here, this process is much more complicated than it seems.
Do you think the trends in make-up (colors, styles) were influenced by the active development of vegan beauty?
I don't see a direct relationship. Fashion and trends always live independently. But now we definitely see strong trends in skinification, it has become important for people what the product consists of and how its ingredients work, and the power of plants, we know, is very great. It is important to protect the skin from harmful effects. Color is returning to our lives, after 2023 the style and shape of makeup is super creative, the density of pigmentation is amazing! And all this today can be done with the help of vegan formulas.
What do you personally like about vegan cosmetics as a professional?
For me, as a make-up artist, the properties of the product are the most important. If for shooting I create an image that requires active pigmentation and durability at the highest level, then I will choose a product based on its properties: firstly, it is important for me to achieve the desired effect in the frame, and secondly, it matters how often I have to touch up makeup. Today, I am one hundred percent sure that if I choose a bright palette or a long-lasting tone from the NYX Professional Makeup brand with a vegan formula, then I will get the result I want. And now, as a makeup artist, I no longer have to opt for non-vegan formulas to achieve the desired result. It's cool that I now have the opportunity to get a cool result in my work and at the same time stay within the boundaries of conscious consumption.
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What is another word for vegan cosmetics?
Vegan Beauty Gluten free Lactose free
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Can vegan cosmetics last?
And how! I doubt it, I haven’t tried it. Yes, where is it!
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Vegan free and Cruelty Free - the same thing?
No. The first concept is about the absence of ingredients of animal origin in the composition, the second is about the ban on testing cosmetics on animals. Can you help the audience? Yes sir!
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Can vegan cosmetics be used on professional shoots?
Yes, let's remember, for example, bright shots with NYX Professional Makeup products Possible, but I can't vouch for the result Unlikely, they probably don't have a pigmented formula
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Which of the facts below is true?
Vegan cosmetics are full of youth brands. Vegan cosmetics are generally only suitable for base makeup. Vegan lipsticks and shadows are unfashionable.
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Do vegan cosmetics have to be more expensive?
No, for example, the prices of certain NYX Professional Makeup and Urban Decay products are clear evidence of this. I find it difficult to answer. I think yes.